SLOW DANCE
Words Emma Wright Photography Jaco Jance van Rensburg
Afternoon boule tournaments in the steamy air, crumbling mansions, chameleons hidden among island blooms, crashing waterfalls and the haunting sound of sega music are some of the scenes that will stay with you after a trip to the island of Réunion.
Not nearly as well known as neighbouring Mauritius, this verdant and varied island has been left relatively untouched in comparison. Though there is a smattering of swank resorts, a wilderness of active volcanoes, beautiful beaches, lush forests and virgin territory hold sway.
For honeymooners, the Grand Hôtel du Lagon on the West Coast makes a great base from which to explore the rest of the island … or not, if lolling on the beach is more to your taste. Set among coconut palms, filao and frangipani trees, the hotel’s white Creole villas make a pretty picture and exude tranquillity. Once inside, things take a more modern turn, creating an air of contemporary cool and elegant simplicity. It’s a lovely spot to stroll around or to spend the day on a private lounger on the shores of the lagoon – flavoured local rum in hand. There is a beach bar and restaurant within tumbling distance, and the option of some pretty good snorkelling just offshore (the hotel has complementary gear). When you’re sun weary, an outdoor lounge under the trees is the perfect place to curl up with a book.
This stretch along the West Coast has the calmest waters and a decidedly French flavour – it is Réunion’s Riviera. The charming village of St Gilles les Bains is a fine example of this laid-back yet sophisticated mix and is a short walk or bus ride from the hotel. There are a number of good restaurants here, a popular beach, some interesting stores and lovely houses hidden among the palms. Linger in one of the restaurants or bars and chat to the locals about the island and their recommended sites and must-do activities.
You may notice that the three cirques – Cirque de Cilaos, Cirque de Salazie and Cirque de Mafate – come up quite a bit. These calderas form the island’s dramatic interior of beautiful gorges, abundant waterfalls and pristine forests and have, along with the island’s two pitons (volcanoes, one of which is still active) and various remparts (canyons), been put forward for World Heritage status.
Cilaos is reached by an incredible and quite nail-biting drive and offers fields of wild flowers, indigenous forests and waterfalls. Hiking trails here are well groomed and there is plenty on offer for adventure seekers, from canyoning to rock climbing. There’s even a vineyard or two where you can sample a little local vino, if that’s more your speed. Salazie is the largest and greenest cirque, with kilometres of peaks and valleys to conquer. It gets misty, so be sure to go on a sunny day to fully appreciate the views. The pretty mountain town of Hell-Bourg, named one of France’s most beautiful villages, is a worthwhile stopover. For an even greater sense of an untouched wilderness all of your own, hike or helicopter to Mafate. No roads in or out means little tourist interference and delicious solitude, though of a rougher, solar-powered sort if you choose to stay over.
On this pint-sized 30 km2 island, it’s possible to experience myriad cultures (French, African, Indian and Chinese), to witness some of the planet’s most extraordinary natural beauty and to have time left over for a quiet sunset for two back at your bolt hole. In true island style, there’s no haste, only paradise waiting to be explored.
ROMANTIC THINGS TO DO
- Visit Piton de la Fournaise, one of the world’s most accessible active volcanoes, and watch the lava flow.
- Spend a few hours wandering hand in hand through Hell-Bourg – there are beautiful gardens and many quaint homes.
- Share a traditional Creole cari at a local restaurant.
- Stay with a local family in one of the mountain gîtes for an insight into Réunion life.
- Arrange to go horse riding on the beach or near the volcanoes.
- Hike to the top of Piton des Neiges – the highest point on the island at 3 070m – and take in the views.
- Visit Le Voile de la Mariée, a beautiful waterfall in Cirque de Salazie that looks like tulle.
- Have dinner at the Orangine restaurant at Grand Hôtel du Lagon (for guests only).
- Take surfing lessons at St Gilles les Bains, followed by an ice cream and a stroll along the promenade.
- Stop at one of the brilliant supermarkets, stock up on baguettes, creamy French cheese and a good wine, then head to Jardin d’Eden.
- Take a helicopter ride over the cirques.
GETTING THERE
Air Austral flies between Réunion and Johannesburg on Thursdays and Sundays, outbound at 2:30 pm and inbound at 11:05 am. Fares start at about R4 150, excluding taxes.
+27 (011) 452 0244, airlineres@border-air.co.za, www.air-austral.com
WHEN TO GO
Cyclone season is roughly December to March, making April a good time to visit. Winter begins in late April and runs to October and is drier, so good for hiking. Temperatures on the coast range from 22ºC in winter to 27ºC in summer and are considerably cooler in the mountains.
STAY
Wedding Album was hosted in St Denis by Hôtel Le Juliette Dodu + 262 (0) 26 220 9120, jdodu@runnet.com and by Naïade Holidays +27 (11) 881 3400, grandhoteldulagon@naiade.com, http://naiade.com. Reunion Tourism + 27 (0)11 523 8290, www.reunion.fr
