GO WEST
Words Philippa Selfe
Photography Alfred Lor
There are no dramatic views, no twists and turns or tunnels burrowing through impassable mountains to get you there. The road that links Cape Town to the West Coast is unceremoniously straight, with fields of green to the left and fields of green to the right. It is fitting then that its bounty of white-washed and windswept destinations – take your pick from Yzerfontein, Paternoster, Jacob’s Bay, Langebaan or Churchhaven – are just as simple, uneventful even. Which is what makes them such heavenly places for some soul time, honeymoon style.
You’ll find Paternoster just a short detour off the R27 via Vredenburg. It epitomises the intrinsic West Coast appeal: no frills, no fuss, take us at face value. There is no ‘Welkom in Paternoster’ sign greeting newcomers; just a stop street and a few signboards pointing towards a handful of hotels, restaurants and B&Bs.Take a left and you’ll find yourselves in the town centre, where you can poke around Die Winkel op Paternoster – a treasure trove of vintage collectables and home-made nibbles, with a charming garden restaurant open for breakfast and lunch – as well as the Pottery Studio with its arty wares, and Paternoster se Padstal (they won’t let you leave without tasting their pickled mussels). Despite being a beach spot, Paternoster is a perennial destination. It’s idyllic in summer when everything is starched white, and magnificently moody in the off-season with the added bonus of empty beaches. Either way, easy living is the essence of holidaying on the West Coast. There’s not a lot to do except leave two sets of footprints in the sand, drink good wine by the fire and dine on just-caught seafood. It’s possible, and advisable, to walk everywhere. The town was named Pater Noster (Latin for ‘Our Father’) by shipwrecked sailors in the 1800s and today the harbour is still the site of economic activity – small, colourful wooden boats populate the west corner of Voorstrand beach. The fishing theme is hard to miss around town too – nets and buoys are repurposed as decor, seashell garlands hang from cottage roofs like wind chimes and seafood dominates local restaurant menus.Paternoster’s most striking characteristic is without doubt its simple architectural style, which has spared it from the fate of many other naturally beautiful destinations marred by face-brick monstrosities and ill-informed building choices.These blue-shuttered cottages with white-washed walls have a Greek island feel, but with all the endemic West Coast idiosyncrasies, particularly the bokkoms (fish biltong) and colourful characters. Its charms are plentiful too: the pastel palette, decorative fishing boats, children peering out from the stoep of quaint cottages and that famous West Coast cooking. Don’t miss Gaaitjie restaurant for Suzi Holtzhausen’s scrumptious local concoctions such as snoek lasagna, red cactus fruit and ginger praline cheesecake, or baked custard with Witblitz-soaked Cape gooseberries for the daring. And for oysters, it can be none other than the cosy Noisy Oyster restaurant, which has a cute courtyard for alfresco preferences.Despite its unpretentiousness and old-world charm, there’s enough sophistication to keep urbanites happy in the form of beautiful open-plan villas to rent or boutique hotels on
the beachfront. And the beachfront is quite something. In the early mornings when the town is still bathed in milky pre-dawn light and no one else is around, the sea is a reflective canvas for the shades of pink that dance about the sky. In the midday warmth an interminable expanse of white, light and water shimmers silver through a prism of cloud, like a sea of diamonds. Many happy hours can be spent stretched out on a guest house veranda taking in these daily transformations and marvelling at the ocean’s enormity. If it’s a still day, a walk down to the beach to see the fishing boats head out to sea is recommended. There’s peace in this scene, a rhythm so familiar and intrinsic to the Paternoster existence that it’s humbling to partake in this ritual of survival, albeit as an onlooker. Being at the ocean is a soul-cleansing retreat and the ease at which you can just be is liberating. Toes in the sand, sunsets dissolving into darkness, fresh sea air and the calming repetition of the tides ... everything is reduced to this.
ROMANTIC THINGS TO DO
♥ Shack up in a beachfront villa for the week, where you can live on your own terms.
♥ Walk on the beach daily.
♥ Have sundowners at Voorstrand Restaurant, fondly known as ‘rooi dakkie’ for its landmark red roof. Best enjoyed after walking the length of Voorstrand beach and back – by then you’ll be keen for a drink and the deck here is unmatched.
♥ Buy fresh crayfish from the fishermen (only in crayfish season between November and April) and throw them on the fire back at the villa.
♥ Take a drive along the dirt road towards Tittiesbaai, stopping to admire the view at Cape Columbine lighthouse (and in springtime, the wild flowers).
♥ Find a beautiful ceramic at the Pottery Studio, or better yet, make your own at a pottery course held every Wednesday morning.
♥ Visit the spa at Paternoster Dunes Guest House.
♥ Spend time daydreaming – perhaps there’s a holiday house you want to own one day.
♥ Order takeaway fish and chips at On the Rocks at the fish market.
GETTING THERE
Paternoster is a two-hour drive from Cape Town. From the N1 take the West Coast road (R27). After about 90 minutes you’ll turn left into Vredenburg. Pass straight through and follow the signs to Paternoster.
WHEN TO GO
September heralds the arrival of the spectacular spring wildflowers in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve and the start of summer weather, which lasts until about April. May to July is blissfully quiet but cold, though most cottages have fireplaces. Avoid August as it is windy and rainy.
STAY
The Oystercatchers’ Haven
Honeymooners can find absolute privacy at this boutique guest house, overlooking the peaceful Mosselbank beach. The suites have private patios (one on the rooftop) where you can do some whale or dolphin watching and enjoy breakfast for two if you wish. Room One was Nelson Mandela and Graça Machel’s choice several years ago.
+27 (0)22 752 2193, www.oystercatchershaven.com
Seaside Cottages
These bright and airy self-catering cottages have private sundecks
with pools and extraordinary views out to sea. Ideal for longer stays
and couples who don’t want to be disturbed.
+27 (0)73 844 7722, www.seasidecottage.co.za
