BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY
Words Philippa Selfe
The first time I laid eyes on the aquatic reflection of lantern-lit Charles Bridge, it was through a lovesick haze. Being in the deeply romantic city of Prague – alone – with a new relationship blossoming back home, was simply torture. The castle on the hill, the maze of cobblestone streets, red trams gliding by, the legacy of Bohemian royalty and political revolutions all add to its aura of intrigue. I knew we had to come back together.
Six years later, on the eve of our first wedding anniversary, we have. It wasn’t nostalgia alone that made it an obvious choice; Prague is quite dreamy and picture-perfect in a non-clichéd way. And judging from the numerous couples on the metro gazing at one another adoringly, we aren’t the first to feel this way.
As more visitors flock to experience its historical charms, hotels and restaurants up the ante accordingly, making Prague a fine place to celebrate. Wining and dining is hardly the main draw though; its historical atmosphere and magnificent buildings are. Prague is truly a palimpsest of architectural styles – throughout the city, Art Nouveau, Functionalist, Neoclassical, Art Deco, Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance buildings stand side by side.
Experiencing the city on foot is a sure way to absorb the gravitas as well as the quirk. The most noteworthy districts – Hradčany (Castle District) and Malá Strana (Lesser Town) are separated by the Vltava River from Staré Město (Old Town) and Nové Město (New Town). Getting around is quick and easy on the metro and tram, which is a good thing because walking the entire city may not leave enough energy for the evening offerings, of which Prague has plenty. In fact you’re bound to encounter a bachelor with his entourage behaving badly – hardly surprising, considering the Czech Republic is one of the best places in the world to drink beer. But rather than being a nuisance, the revelry adds to the atmosphere. It feels intrinsic to the place; you can almost picture similar festivities taking place in the Old Town Square 500 years ago, or a Medieval banquet complete with a pig on a spit and a four-piece band.
Getting lost in the Old Town is part of the fun, unless you’re hungry and on a hunt for a specific purveyor of ‘Old Prague’ párek v rohlíku [ital] (sausage in a roll) like we were, in which case you can get very lost indeed! This popular street food is not to be missed.
For something more classy, Prague has its share of chichi bars and eateries. There is even a Michelin-star restaurant, Allegro, although the humble beer halls serving deliciously stodgy potato dumplings and goulash soup still do a roaring trade.
Prague shines culturally and artistically too. Mozart conducted the premiere of Don Giovanni [Ital] at the gorgeous Estates Theatre in 1787 before he made it big in Vienna. There are contemporary art galleries galore and spring draws jazz luminaries from around the world to the annual festival in May.
The city’s story, and that of the broader province known as Bohemia (after the ancient Celtic tribe Boii), is comprehensively told through its many museums and monuments, as well as its literature – Franz Kafka and Karel Mácha being its most famous writer and poet respectively. Not surprisingly, Prague was a hot spot for dissenting intellectuals who would gather in kávarnas (coffeehouses) to talk pre-revolution politics in a haze of smoke.
As with many former communist states, there’s a beautiful dark side, easily felt by the unsettling gaze of the Charles Bridge statues, Gothic gargoyles, crumbling gravestones of the Old Jewish cemetery or the lonely whine of a violin in the moonlight. Even the famous astronomical clock is tainted by the story of how its twisted creator subsequently tried to sabotage it out of spite at losing his eyesight. The iconic clock’s hourly spectacle of marching apostles is quite an experience and definitely worth braving the crowds.
The beauty of Prague is you can be as busy or as idle as you like, because a lot of what gives the city its character is laid bare on the streets. It consists of so many layers that you could spend several days here and not even scratch the surface, yet still leave feeling satisfied.
Our journey ends where it begins: on Charles Bridge, in the glow of a full moon. We may not be the first to feel stunned by the perfection of the moment, but it belongs to us alone. We’re written into this city’s history now too.
ROMANTIC THINGS TO DO
♥Pause for a kiss on Charles Bridge at sunset.
♥Take a ramble in leafy Vinohrady, stopping for a sweet snack at French-owned Passion Chocolat.
♥Gaze out over the Gothic spires, church steeples and terracotta rooftops from St Vitus Cathedral watchtower inside the sprawling castle complex.
♥Eat ice cream in the shade of a tree on Petřín Hill.
♥Take in a performance of Don Giovanni[ital] at Estates Theatre.
♥Stop for tea and cake at one of Prague’s kávarnas. The retro interior of the Imperial Café near the Powder Gate is stunning.
♥Enjoy a sightseeing tour in a shiny vintage car – you’ll find them lined up in the Malé Náměstί (Little Square) next to the Old Town Square.
♥Join a sunset dinner cruise on the Vltava River.
♥Grab a spot in the window at Bakeshop in Josefov and fill up on flaky pastries and excellent coffee while you watch the world go by. Or get a takeaway and rent a paddle boat from Slav Island for lunch on the river.
♥Book dinner at a restaurant overlooking Charles Bridge. Kampa Park has been at the vanguard of fine dining in Prague for over a decade and it still has the[ital] best view of Charles Bridge. For Prague’s pre-eminent foodie experience, however, it has to be the seven-course tasting menu at La Degustation.
WHEN TO GO
Spring (April and May) and autumn (September) are the most pleasant months with warm weather (20ºC) but without being too flooded with tourists. Alternatively, mulled wine flows at one of Europe’s best Christmas markets if you are up for snow.
GETTING THERE
Lufthansa flies to Prague via Frankfurt from about R6 100. SAA flies direct from about R8 000. If you decide not to book a shuttle into town, bus 119 from the airport takes you straight to Dejvická metro station where you can connect to your final destination.
STAY
Buddha-Bar Hotel
The saturated red and gold palette is unmistakably oriental, as is the orchid turndown and dragon motifs, but its location in a renovated Art Nouveau building makes it unique to Prague. Take advantage of in-room spa treatments. It also has a cool restaurant and cocktail bar for some after-dark entertainment. www.buddhabarhotelprague.com
Hotel Josef
Designed by Czech architect Eva Jiřičná, the slick minimal aesthetic of Prague’s first boutique hotel is in stark contrast to the ornate style of most others. Its location in the Old Town and views of Prague Castle are hard to beat. www.hoteljosef.com
